Lauren's Flower Girl Dress

A couple of years ago a friend asked me to make a flower girl dress for her wedding.  I did a quick photoshop mock up of the style she wanted using a photo of a similar style in a similar fabric so that she would have an idea of what it would look like when finished.  The sash will be different, but the fabric is similar.  She really wanted the one shoulder look because that is what the bridesmaids are wearing.  I talked her into letting me put a thin strap on the other shoulder, because, let's face it, little girls are not built like big girls and I was afraid that it would gap.  I bought some black ruffle elastic for that little strap which I think will be super cute!

Just as I was about ready to start cutting the fabric for the dress, she informed me that she had postponed her wedding.  Thankfully I had not begun cutting into the fabric yet!  And in retrospect, even more glad that the company from which I ordered the fabric accidentally filled my order twice!  When I contacted them about it, they told me to keep the extra yardage.  There is plenty of this satin damask print for a bigger size dress.

My original plan for this dress was to modify an existing pattern, per my usual MO back in those days.  However, since taking the Pattern Workshop course, I have decided that I might get a better fit by drafting it myself.

So, that is what I did this weekend.  I drafted the bodice and made a muslin.  I have yet to try it on the little gal to see how it fits.  I'm hoping it fits well on the first go, but we will see.

I also started work on a little ruffled, tiered, half slip for her to wear under her dress to add some fullness.  I thought about building a crinoline into the dress.  I realized, after thinking about it for a while, that a half slip might be more useful to them because she can wear it with other dresses as well.

I have been trying a technique I have not tried before.  Making the ruffles on my serger.  After having broken two needles trying this method, I think I might have figured it out.  I'm not sure that I am crazy about doing the ruffles this way, to be honest.  The gathered edge looks a bit too messy for my taste.  It is, however, considerably faster than the traditional method of gathering that I usually use.  Maybe I'm just too much of a traditionalist because I know this isn't a new technique, it's just one that I have never explored.

So, what about you?  What projects have you been working on this weekend?  What new things are you learning or trying?

Who Won the Estherlyn's Jumper Pattern?

Helen Moore, you are the winner of the Estherlyn's Jumper pattern! I have replied to your comment. Congratulations and have fun sewing!

Estherlyn's Jumper With Ruffles

Yet another way to dress up your Estherlyn's Jumper is to add ruffles.  Tester Georgia Anderson did this with her fun patriotic version of the jumper.

I could see this done with ruffle added to the hem as well.  Or, perhaps, a small ruffle added across the bottom of the yoke.  Maybe even all three.

Another ruffled idea that I have not had time to try, but am dying to see done is to add ruffles to the skirt of the dress under the apron.  Wouldn't this just be the cutest?

Don't forget to comment to be included in the drawing!  The winner will be announced tomorrow morning on the blog!  Win the pattern and sew up your own Estherlyn's Jumper!  I would love to see it. :)

Until next time!

Happy sewing! 

Estherlyn's Jumper with a Patch Pocket

Today's design idea is another very simple one. Char Anderson, who was one of the testers who helped with this pattern, decided to add a patch pocket to the front of the dress that she made for her daughter.  I liked the idea so much that I decided to include simple shapes in the pattern that can be used for patch pockets or appliqué.  You may chose from a heart, a star, a four petal flower or a traditional pocket shape.  Multiple sizes of each shape are included so that you can customize your own look.  I also included a link to the tutorial section here at the blog where I have tutorials that show how to make patch pockets and how to do heat bonded machine appliqué. 

The added shapes are something that I intend to add to each new pattern that I release.  I think it's just a fun little addition that will help you customize your garments to your own style and taste.

Don't forget that I will be giving away a copy of the Estherlyn's Jumper Pattern on Thursday!
Comment below for your chance to win!

Until next time,
Happy Sewing!

Kids Clothes Week and a Chance to Win!

Today is the start of this round of Kids Clothes Week!  Are you sewing along?

I thought I'd share some easy design ideas for my Estherlyn's Jumper pattern this week.  Some of these ideas came from some of my testers.  I'm also giving away one free copy of the pattern.   Leave a comment from now through Wednesday evening to be entered to win.  I'll draw for a winner on Thursday morning.  Please be sure to include a way for me to contact you if you win.

I sewed up this little 2t Estherlyn's Jumper a week or so ago.  The design changes were very simple on this one.  I just added a couple of little decorative buttons along the edge of the apron and I also used bias trim along the curved edge of the apron instead of sewing the apron pieces together and turning them.  Easy peasy!  The best part about this dress was that everything (except the yellow buttons) came from my stash!

What would be your take on this pattern?  I'd love to know!

Weekend Sale

Just popping in to let you know that Estherlyn's Jumper will be on sale at Etsy and at my Big Cartel shop from this evening through Sunday.  Use coupon code WEEKEND for a 25% discount.

The code will not work at Craftsy, it will only work at Etsy and at my Big Cartel shop.

Happy Sewing!

The Big Day is Finally Here!

I am so excited to finally be able to share this pattern with you!
Estherlyn's Jumper is finally available for purchase!  See the link in my sidebar to purchase it from my new little shop.  It is also available in my Etsy shop and Craftsy. Today only use the coupon code LAUNCH and receive a 25% discount.  Craftsy does not allow discount codes, so to get the discount please purchase through my shop link in my side bar or my Etsy shop. :)

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Estherlyn's Jumper is perfect for all seasons. In warmer weather it can be worn as a sleeveless dress. When the weather turns cooler, layer it over a shirt or blouse. This is a cute, simple design with an asymmetrical apron panel in the front. It is a great canvas for expressing your own creativity by adding trims, ruffles, appliqué or decorative stitching.  It covers a wide size range from 3 months to 10 years.  

This pattern is easy enough for beginner sewists. Skills needed consist of button holes, sewing curves and pivoting.

Once again a big thank you goes out to all of my testers, the friends I have made through Pattern Workshop, Lauren Dahl who created Pattern Workshop, my sweet hubby, Jason, and my Creator without whom I would be nothing.  I could not have done this without all of the support that has been shown to me throughout this process.  They have helped to make this dream a reality for me! 

How to Make a Patch Pocket

Adding a patch pocket can be a fun and simple way to add detail to a pattern.  Traditional "pocket" shapes can be used, but simple shapes such ash hearts or flowers can be used as well.  Keep in mind that it is much simpler to add a patch pocket to a flat piece of fabric.  I recommend that you apply all of your pockets before assembling your garment.  

There are a couple of different methods that you can use.  

Method 1

You can use a single layer of fabric.  This method is best used with a more traditional pocket shape which has a straight edge along the top.   First turn the raw edge under toward the wrong side of the fabric around the bottom part of the pocket and press it with an iron.  Use a narrow allowance such as 1/4 inch.  If there are curves you may need to press some of the fullness into the seam allowance.  Just press the creases as best you can to achieve the shape that you want and get it as flat as possible.  

Next, fold down the top edge a narrow seam allowance.  Then fold it down again so that the raw edge is enclosed in the folds.  You are essentially creating a hem.  Stitch across this to encase the raw edge. 

After hemming the top edge of the pocket, you can place it on your garment and sew it into place around the bottom edge using a very narrow seam allowance.  The seam allowance should only be about 1/8 of an inch.  

Method 2

Cut out 2 identical pieces for each pocket.  

Place them right sides together and stitch them together using a quarter to 3/8 inch seam allowance.  Leave a small opening for turning.  

Trim seams if needed and notch curves if needed.  Turn right side out.  Use a chopstick or other similar implement to poke out any corners until they are nice and square.  Press with an iron.  Make sure that the little bit of raw edge from your turning opening gets pressed up between the layers of fabric. Topstitch across the top edge of the pocket to give it more stability.   

Place your pocket on your garment piece and stitch into place making sure to secure the raw edge from your turning opening.  Stitch approximately 1/8 inch from the edge of the pocket. 

There you have it.  Two simple ways to add patch pockets to your garments.  You can dress them up by adding embroidery, lace, rickrack, piping or coming up with your own idea!  

How to do Heat Bonded Machine Applique

First of all, I highly recommend washing all fabrics to be used in your appliqué in hot water before you begin your appliqué project.  If you are going to appliqué to a T-shirt, I recommend washing the shirt as well.  You want everything that may shrink to have already shrunk before you begin.

I like to use Heat and Bond Lite fusible web when I do appliqué. It is nice and lightweight and it bonds well with the fabric and gives a good solid hold while I sew around the edges.

Step 1.  Choose the shape that you would like to appliqué and trace it on to the paper side of the fusible web.  Be aware that this will be the back side of your appliqué, so if your design needs to be turned a certain way (for instance, letters or numbers), you will need to be tracing it mirror imaged from the intended final direction.

Step 2.  Trim the fusible web close to, but not on the lines.

Step 3.  Iron this piece to the wrong side of your fabric following the manufacturer's instructions.  It is important when ironing these pieces to allow them to cool before you move them otherwise they may not adhere as well as they should.

Step 4.  When cooled, cut out your shapes.

Step 5.   Peel the paper off of the back.

Step 6.  Place your pieces in the desired locations and iron them into place.  Once again, allow them to cool.

Step 7.  Place fabric stabilizer on the back side.  I like to use an iron on stabilizer, but really any stabilizer will work.  It only needs to be big enough to cover the area to be appliquéd.

Step 8. You are not necessarily limited to only using the zigzag stitch for machine appliqué.  Most machines have a variety of stitches.  Play with them and use your own creativity to come up with something that is unique to your own style.

For this example I will use a zigzag stitch.  Set your machine for a zigzag stitch.  You can play around with the stitch width to find a width that you like, however keep in mind that you want to cover the edge well enough that it will not fray or pull out when washed.  The stitch length should be set very small.  I usually set mine to almost the smallest setting.  I recommend making a few practice samples before attempting your finished piece so that you can get the hang of how to move the fabric and how wide and long to set your stitches for your preferred look.

This is how my machine was set for this example.

Step 9.  Stitch around your appliqué pieces allowing the needle to go off the edge of your appliqué piece on the right hand side.

Step 10.  I always apply a small amount of June Tailor Fray Block around the edges of my appliquéd pieces once the stitching is complete.

How to Finish Your Seams

Finishing With a Serger

This is by far my favorite method of seam finishing.  There are some who sew the actual seam with the serger.   I prefer to sew the seams on my regular sewing machine and then go back and finish the edges on my serger.  I feel this gives me a more accurate and sturdier seam.  I place the raw edge of the fabric so that it is just barely trimmed by the knife on my serger.

Finishing Without a Serger
Even if you do not have a serger, it is still possible to finish your seam edges on your regular sewing machine.

The first method is to use an overlock stitch which you may have on your machine. Consult your manual to see which stitch number to use.  Mine is stitch number 18 on my Pfaff machine.

To use this method, first sew your seam with the designated seam allowance.  Trim the seam a little if desired.  Then go back over the seam using your overlock stitch. Allow the needle to go off of the fabric to the right and use the center of the foot as a guide for the raw edge of the fabric.

The finished seam will look something like this.

If you don't have an overlock stitch on your machine, but you do have a zigzag stitch, you can still finish your seams.

This method is called a zigzag rolled seam.
To do this, again, sew your seam with the designated seam allowance.  If you would like, you may trim the seam a little.  Then choose your zigzag stitch on your machine.  Set the stitch width slightly larger than the default setting and set your stitch length very short.  It should be almost as short as it will go.  Go back over your seam using the center of the foot as a guide for the raw edge of the fabric and allowing the needle to go off of the fabric to the right.

(I forgot to do the original seam on my sample before I took the picture, but you get the idea)

 The finished seam will look like this.

How to Make a French Seam

French seams work best with a seam allowance of 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch.

Step 1.  Place your pieces wrong side together.  This may seem counterintuitive, but when you see how the seam works, it will make sense.

Step 2.  Sew your seam 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric.

Step 3.  Trim the seam to approximately 1/8 inch.

Step 4.  Set the seam by pressing it with an iron set to the appropriate setting for your fabric.

Step 5. Turn the seam so that the right sides of the fabric are now together and press the seam.  The raw edge of the fabric should be in between the layers of fabric.

Step 6.  Sew the seam again using a 3/8 inch seam allowance (for a 5/8 inch seam) or 1/4 inch for a 1/2 inch seam.

The raw edge of the fabric should now be enclosed in the seam.

Reflections on the 4th of July

Today is the 4th of July.  It is the anniversary of the founding of this country that we call the United States.  A day for celebrating who we are and for remembering those who paid the ultimate price to ensure the freedom in which we live our day to day lives.  A day to honor those who have fought to defend our nation and to protect us and keep us safe.  

I sometimes wonder why I was chosen by God to be as blessed as I have been to have been born here, and have to have grown up here.  There are so many in the world who have never known the blessings and luxuries that I have known.  I can only be grateful, because I was placed here through no choice of my own.  

As anyone who has spent much time in the US knows, this place truly is a melting pot of many traditions and cultures.  As I was growing up, I knew other people who's heritage was German or Italian or Jewish (among other nationalities) and they knew where they came from and held their cultural traditions near and dear to their hearts. I didn't know much about where I came from and I often wondered where my roots were. What nationality did I descend from? What cultural traditions were passed down to me that came from other places? 

When I reached my early thirties I decided to see what I could find out about my heritage. 

I found that my ancestors have been on this continent since before the USA was the USA. 

They were Irish, English, Czech, German and even possibly some Native American.  

They fought in the Revolutionary War. They were both blue and gray in the Civil War, both fighting for what they believed to be right.  They were Navy and Marines in the Second World War.  Some were Air Force men and Navy men during both the Korean War and peace time.  I have cousins who have been to Iraq.  

They were merchants and farmers and clergymen. 

There were both rich and poor. 

Eventually I came to see that my heritage is not that of another country. It is American. It is a wonderful mixture of all of these cultures and more. The blood of people who have fought for and possibly died for this country runs through my veins. 

My traditions are apple pie and ice cream. Chocolate chip cookies and lemonade stands. Picnics and fireworks on this day in July. County fairs and midway rides. Turkey and cranberries on the third Thursday in November. Santa parades and summer festivals.  Summer vacations and sprinklers on the lawn.  Christmas vacation from school and snow angels in the yard.  Martin Luther King Day, Presidents' Day, Memorial Day, Labor Day and Veteran's Day.     

I know who I am and I am honored and blessed to be who I am.

I am an American.

The Testers Have Been Testing!

Photo credit Dotta Sews Dress sewn in cotton voile

It's been a bit of a bumpy ride and I have a lot more work to do, but I thought I'd share a few of the tester photos of my first pattern, Estherlyn's Jumper.  I am so thankful for my testers and all of the